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 Elphinstone Street: the art and culture cradle of yesteryear

By Shahid Husain

Karachi:

Elphinstone Street (now Zaibunnisa Street) in Saddar, the heart of Karachi, evokes fond memories among citizens since it has not only been a fashion street in the megapolis but also a place where many bookshops flourished in yesteryear. “There were several bookshops on this street in the days gone by. Almost all are gone,” said noted short story writer and columnist Zahida Hina. “It had Pak-American Bookshop, Hameed Kashmiri’s bookshop, Kitab Mahal and Writers’ Guild Bookshop,” she said. 

“You found famous actor and hero of the famous pre-Partition film, Pukaar, Sadiq Ali, popularly known as Prince of Minerva, sitting on a stool near a bookshop at Capital Cinema and writers and poets at Kitab Mahal,” she said. “All that is gone!” she remarked in a tone of nostalgia. “Book selling is no more a lucrative business. Even SASSI Bookshop on Elphinstone Street that was owned by a big time builder could not sustain itself,” said Hoori Noorani, managing director of “Maktaba-e-Danyal,” one of the finest publishers in town. 

“When Agha Sarkhosh, the owner of Kitab Mahal was forced to wind up Kitab Mahal, several newspaper columnists including Jamiluddin Aali wrote columns in newspapers against the decision,” recalled Abbas Rizvi, a short story writer and a former banker. The bookshops have been replaced by shops vending jewellery, shoes, and garments. One now finds Maria Jewelers where there was Pak-American Bookshop and the place in front of Chotani Jewelers where one would find Hameed Kashmiri’s bookshop is now deserted. 

Naseem Ahmed, partner at the famous shop, Mobin’s, on Elphinstone Street recalls how the street underwent changes over the last 62 years. “We are here for the last four generations. Our grandfather was an army contractor and we had businesses all over India,” he said. “I started lending a helping hand to my father when I was a student at St. Patrick’s College in the early 1960s. I started working full-time from 1968 onwards,” he said. 

“People used to feel proud when they entered Elphinstone Street. There were embassies here and the class was entirely different,” he said. “In the 1960s there was the Greenwich Bookshop on Elphinstone Street and former Prime Minister Zulfikar Ali Bhutto used to visit it to buy books,” he reminisced. “The 1970s was a boom period business-wise. Even people who were previously reluctant to visit Elphinstone Street started coming here in large numbers. 

We witnessed another boom when Russians and folks from Central Asian Republics started frequenting Elphinstone Street in the 1990s,” he said. “Before 1985 family shopping dominated the scene. Now there is specialisation. People prefer to shop near their homes because of the rising tide of crime,” he said. 

As one passed the traffic signal on Elphinstone Street there was famous Marina Hotel and Bar that also housed Standard Publishers that exclusively sold Russian books and one would find works of great writers such as Tolstoy, Chekhov, Herzen, Lermentov, Pushkin, 

Dostoevsky, Gorky besides works of Marx, Lenin and Plekhanov at affordable prices. Inside the compound of Marina Hotel and Bar was Mehran Book Depot where one could find books from Cuba, Vietnam, German Democratic Republic, and classics of American Marxist writers at affordable prices. The Place has been replaced by Pizza Hut. 

“Within a few years after Independence, Saddar Bazaar emerged as the city’s intellectual and entertainment hub. By the mid-Sixties, it contained over twenty bookshops, sixteen cinemas, thirty-eight bars and billiard rooms, six libraries, four classical music and dance schools, and seven night clubs,” according to noted architect and town planner Arif Hasan. “Kitab Mahal claimed it had every Urdu publication, ever printed, in stock.”

The News: Thursday, May 21, 2009